Looking for the perfect dish to win over your sweetheart? Look no further than this edition of In Search of the Perfect Bite – featuring the Onaga. The long-tailed red snapper, or Ulaula koae in Hawaiian, is commonly known by its Japanese name, Onaga. It is revered as one of the most prized deepwater fish in Hawaii. Onaga is known for its soft and moist light pink flesh, contributing to some of its other monikers, such as the Ruby, Scarlet, or Flame snapper. It’s treasured for its exceptional eating quality and striking crimson skin. This vibrant fish is especially sought after during festive occasions, making it the perfect choice for a romantic Valentine’s Day dish that is sure to captivate your sweetheart.

The snapper family consists of 250 different species. Each one varies in color, size, and preferred habitat. The Hawaiian Onaga typically lives in depths greater than 300 feet. Their diet mainly consists of shrimp, crabs, amphipods, small crustaceans, ascidians, and salps, often called sea squirts. Living at such depths enhances their vibrant red coloration compared to other snappers found in shallower areas. Unlike many snappers, known for their large canine teeth, the Onaga is notable for its small teeth and exceptionally large red eyes, which contribute to its unique and striking appearance. The Onagaʻs diet and how hard they work for food are key components of the merroir that make the Onaga a king among snappers! 

Onaga’s delicate, mild flavor and sashimi-grade texture, rich with a high fat content, make it a delicacy. Its subtle sweetness is likely due to the high glycine content from its diet, which is rich in amino acids found in the crustaceans Onaga prey upon. As a deepwater fish, Onaga moves slowly along rocky bottoms in search of food. Not known for being aggressive fighters, their muscles are delicate and flaky.

The accompanying sauce is a velouté, a French word meaning “velvety.” Its name gives you a clue about the luxurious mouthfeel of this classic French mother sauce. Instead of using chicken or beef stock, this version uses seafood stock made from a native red Hawaiian seaweed known as Limu lepe o hina. Grown at the NELHA Aquaculture Park on the Kona Coast, this vibrant seaweed thrives in the region’s abundant Hawaiian sunshine and the deep, cold water pumped into the tanks, contributing to a sustainable, unique culinary experience. Onaga and the velouté embody the essence of Hawaii’s rich natural resources, offering a festive and memorable dish for any special occasion.

With its striking appearance and exceptional taste, the Onaga is a true treasure of the Hawaiian waters. Its delicate texture and mild flavor, complemented by the unique sweetness derived from its diet, make it a prized choice for fine dining, especially when paired with a velvety seafood velouté. The combination of Onaga and the rich, locally sourced Limu lepe o hina seaweed sauce creates a dish that celebrates Hawaii’s flavors and showcases the island’s commitment to sustainable aquaculture. This Valentine’s Day, indulge in the elegance of Onaga to share a memorable, festive experience with your loved ones.

Dragonʻs Breath Stock

Use two to three large handfuls of Limu lepe o hina (also known as dragon’s breath due to its fiery red color).

• 2 live oysters 
• 2 cups of shrimp shells
• I piece of ginger
• 1 medium onion 
• 4 stalks of celery
• 5 cloves of garlic
•  ½ cup cilantro
• Lime juice
• Salt
• Pepper
• Extra virgin olive oil (EVOO)

Add to a pot with water and simmer for several hours. Limu, oysters, and shrimp shells will add a flavorful marine brine.  

Seagrape and Pineapple Salad

• Fresh pineapple
• Cherry tomatoes
• Sea grapes
• Sesame oil
• Sesame seeds
• White pepper

Grill pineapple and cherry tomatoes. Let cool and toss with seagrapes, sesame seeds, and oil. Add white pepper to taste.

Velouté Sauce

• ½ cup butter
• ½ cup flour

Melt butter on medium heat and then add flour.  Stir until it resembles wet sand, cooking out the raw flour, but do not let it brown.

Add 3 cups of stock and slowly whisk to incorporate. Reduce to desired thickness. The sauce is ready when it can be streaked on the back of a spoon.

Cooking

Bring a nonstick pan to medium heat and coat with olive oil. Portion fish into 4-6 ounce pieces. Pat the skin dry with a paper towel. Season both sides with salt and white pepper. Place fish on the pan, skin side down. As the edges turn white, put the pan into a 500-degree, pre-heated oven for 5 minutes or until the surface is white.  

The Final Plate

• Start by giving a generous swipe of the velouté sauce on the plate.
• Lay the Onaga on top of the sauce. 
• Delicately top the fillet with the pineapple-sea grape salad. 

This photo has a sweet potato layered cake under the fillet and is served with a side of grilled parsnip. The grilled lime wedge is a garnish. Feel free to add a starch and vegetable of your choice. 

Photos and recipe created by Mark Tagal. Written by Lisa Tagal.